Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

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Heirloom
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Heirloom »

Clunker wrote: Yep! There are a lot of modifications that the PO made on this truck, many of them with questionable skill or judgment. Since this is my first Ford, I have no idea what is stock and what is a modification unless it's something obvious. Does the accel rod look stock to you but damaged, or is it just another jimmy-rigged part?
It's certainly a 2150 rod, but bent. If you can tweak it so that the pump lever moves the pump at the same time the throttle moves you will be in good shape. You don't want it pushing the pump in at all at idle though.
Clunker wrote:For a while, I was thinking that something was wrong with the port on my carb because I wasn't getting any vacuum at idle. At that time I had it hooked up to the manifold. Fortunately, another forum member clued me in that the carb port doesn't have any vacuum until you hit the throttle, so the vacuum advance is now connected correctly to the carb port and the manifold port is capped. I tinkered around with the vacuum advance a bit and I'm beginning to suspect again that it is not functioning properly. I read somewhere that you should be able to advance the distributor plate by hand, and plug the port with your finger. When you release the plate while keeping your finger on the port, it should not return to its original position unless there is a leak. I don't know if this is an accurate test, but it failed miserably. If I had a MightyVac, I would just test it properly.
Ahhh. That will not help if your canister is bad! The test you did is valid as long as you're sure there was no other leak. Another quick way I test when its running is suck on the line to the distributor. If it revs when you suck it's pulling advance. If you hold it and it looses the vacuum the RPM's will drop back to normal and you know your can is leaking. It's a simple change.

Unless there is a blockage, the spark port should read 0 vacuum at idle. As soon as the throttle cracks it exposes that port to vacuum. If the curb idle screw is set too high (to compensate for other problems) it could expose that port to vacuum at "idle" because the throttle blades are slightly cracked open. That will really mess you up. So if you read 0 at idle, then read vacuum when the throttle is touched, that port is all good.
Clunker wrote:Carb casting number: 1.23
Jets: I have no idea. One of the PO's put in a remanufactured carb somewhere around 2001, but I have no documentation of what size jets were installed.
Pump Rod: The accelerator pump rod is connected to the top hole of 4 holes on the bell crank.
Thanks for the info. Your carb is 356cfm if you didn't already know. You can try moving the pump rod down 1 hole at a time to see if it helps. My 360 has a 1.14 (300cfm) and likes the 3rd hole (from bottom up).


Do one thing at a time though. Figure out the vacuum advance then move to the carb if you still need to. :wink:
~Heirloom

'68 F250 360, 4 spd Project Thread!
Plans are for a stout 400, C6, 3.54 gears, 33" BFG AT's, bucket seats and custom console. Final assembly, nearing start up...


"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."
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Whateverman
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Whateverman »

:2cents: you can check to see if the vaccuum advance is working with the engine off ,with the distributor cap off ( and looking into the distributor.. obviously) suck on the hose going to the vac. advance diaphram ,if it moves its all good 98% of the time

- you wouldn't be lucky enough to have the rebuild tag with its part number still on the carb,eh?
- still got my first first car 20+yrs later : 69 f100 sorta kinda pretending its a Mercury M100 w/a 70 f350 sport custom cab (factory buckets) 67 grille with 69 ranger cooneyes 68 merc box and hood,some supercool fiberglass fenders i scored way back when, 76 f150 disc brake frontend..currently running a 90 5.0HO 4bbl/c4 auto & 3.50 posi...originally a 360/c6 f100 Ranger with dealer added towpack (incl. kelsey hays trailer brake),boxside toolbox,behind the seat stowage & belly tank...only original parts left on 'er are the frame,rear end,rear springs,and rear bumper...
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Clunker »

Thanks for all the info guys. I finally relented and bought a MightyVac this morning just to be sure that the vacuum advance diaphragm is part of the problem. Bingo! The diaphragm will not hold any vacuum at all. There may also be other problems associated with the hesitation, but replacing the diaphragm is an obvious first step.

Now, the question is. Where the heck do I get one? Napa has 7 possible fits, but they can't tell me which one it is, and they don't have any in stock. O'Reilly's can only order a complete remanufactured distributor, and the only other parts store apparently can't even order anything. Advance Auto online doesn't have any exact matches, and none of the images look even close to what I have. Any suggestions?
Whateverman wrote:- you wouldn't be lucky enough to have the rebuild tag with its part number still on the carb,eh?
Whoever remanufactured the carb did put a sticker on it, but I have no idea what the numbers mean: 23730006 and 04110110
1970 F250 CS: 360, RV cam, Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, Holley 600, headers, Pertronix II, Flamethrower coil.
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Heirloom »

Clunker wrote:Thanks for all the info guys. I finally relented and bought a MightyVac this morning just to be sure that the vacuum advance diaphragm is part of the problem. Bingo! The diaphragm will not hold any vacuum at all. There may also be other problems associated with the hesitation, but replacing the diaphragm is an obvious first step.
Nice. A very useful tool indeed. And no project is complete unless you get to buy a tool! :D

Clunker wrote:Now, the question is. Where the heck do I get one? Napa has 7 possible fits, but they can't tell me which one it is, and they don't have any in stock. O'Reilly's can only order a complete remanufactured distributor, and the only other parts store apparently can't even order anything. Advance Auto online doesn't have any exact matches, and none of the images look even close to what I have. Any suggestions?
It might be worth checking the shaft play on your distributor since you are looking at messing with it anyhow. A rebuilt unit at O-really (their real name...it's what I say every time they give me a part I know is wrong) is only around $50. Pretty low cost and you don't have to mess with the vacuum canister and the dozen different options. :2cents: I always hate dealing with the keyboard jockeys at the parts stores.
~Heirloom

'68 F250 360, 4 spd Project Thread!
Plans are for a stout 400, C6, 3.54 gears, 33" BFG AT's, bucket seats and custom console. Final assembly, nearing start up...


"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."
~ Thomas Jefferson

"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
~ Abraham Lincoln
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Clunker »

Heirloom wrote:Nice. A very useful tool indeed. And no project is complete unless you get to buy a tool!
Amen to that! Now I just need to figure what other fun things I can do with my new toy. Oh wait! I already found another use. Figured out that my 2-decades-old vacuum gauge is not correct, which means that my idle manifold vacuum is not 17.5". It is 19" Hg.

I found the vacuum advance on ebay express-shipped for $16.45. O-Really (I'm definitely stealing that name) quoted me $39.99 plus tax for the complete distributor, but the shaft on mine is rock solid, and the timing is already set perfectly, so I didn't want to mess with it. I guess replacing the unit will solve two problems. The ignition will advance like it is supposed to, and replacing a bad diaphragm means that I will be plugging another vacuum leak. :woohoo:
1970 F250 CS: 360, RV cam, Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, Holley 600, headers, Pertronix II, Flamethrower coil.
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Heirloom »

:woohoo: You're on your way now!

Just saw your location. How are things in sleepy Pullman? I think I've only been through once. On my way from Spokane to Clarkston/Lewiston to do a security install at an Alberston's. Beautiful country. I was living in Olympia at the time. :)
~Heirloom

'68 F250 360, 4 spd Project Thread!
Plans are for a stout 400, C6, 3.54 gears, 33" BFG AT's, bucket seats and custom console. Final assembly, nearing start up...


"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."
~ Thomas Jefferson

"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
~ Abraham Lincoln
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Clunker »

Heirloom wrote:You're on your way now!
Well . . . I was on my way until this morning. A whole new set of problems, starting with a spontaneous radiator leak, has now resulted in a drenched ignition system and two more leaks in the process of fixing the first one. Now it looks like I will have to pull the distributor anyway to clean out the antifreeze. The project never ends.

Pullman is great, but I don't think I would use the term "sleepy" to describe it. It's Mom's weekend at WSU, and these Coug Moms party like rock stars.
1970 F250 CS: 360, RV cam, Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, Holley 600, headers, Pertronix II, Flamethrower coil.
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Heirloom »

LOL! Nice. I'm on my way..... :D

Sorry about the new problems :( I hate when things start to unravel like that. :x
~Heirloom

'68 F250 360, 4 spd Project Thread!
Plans are for a stout 400, C6, 3.54 gears, 33" BFG AT's, bucket seats and custom console. Final assembly, nearing start up...


"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."
~ Thomas Jefferson

"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
~ Abraham Lincoln
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by almostcopied »

Thanks to all that have responded!! Truly AWESOME!! I am a new Ford owner myself and am having similar problems. Your suggestions have made my truck run SOOO much better. It stumbled and backfired every time you stepped on the accelerator. My choke was missing the tubes, was rotated so far that it was always turned off ( now it starts...woohoo) and the idle air mixture screws were backed out 7 1/2 turns. I had it to two different mechanics that just threw there hands up. I guess because it can't be hooked up to a laptop. I have only one last issue...... I turn the warm idle screw down nearly every time I drive it and the next time it finds its way back up making it dangerous at an intersection. my gut still says vacuum leak????

I have a 72 CS with a 360 FE and Autolite 2100 carb
It's all just a bunch of tree huggin' hippie crap!
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by Bumpside Bobby »

WOW, all good stuff, thanks to all, ......but....still not working right
I was wondering, my truck does not have a canister, don't know if it ever did, would this help the stumble?
I do notice as I'm at idel, and its pulling 14.5 manifold vac as soon as I touch the pedal the vacuum plummets toward 0 then bounces back up. Is this normal or am I zeroing in on the issue?
thanks all
1969 F250 Ranger 390 4spd w/POWER STEERING (no name yet) over 500,000 miles
1956 Willys Jeep CJ5 modified powered by Ford "TONKA"
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Re: Motorcraft 2150 adjustments?

Post by sargentrs »

While you have the vacuum gauge hooked up, see if one or more of the scenarios fits you're symptoms. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
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