Zap Boxes

[robroy]

Good evening TorqueMonger,

I can't help with your question, but I wanted to thank you for using the word, "buckazoids." I never knew what "buck" was short for before tonight!

Robroy

[eggman918]

I would not buy a MIG that is not set up to use gas.if you want to do gauge metal only a small 110 volt unit is fine,however if you also intend to weld thicker metal say 1/4" and over
you will need a 220 volt unit.
I have a stick welder for structural/general work and a small mig for thin/small work,a lincoln ac/dc stickwelder is cheep and reliable and a small mig is not expensive ether.
If I had to choose one I would get a stick welder as it is more versatile,at least in my hands

[eggman918]

Oxyacetylene is a MUST skill,it makes learning TIG much easier.
I was very lucky as a machinist in many repair shops I have worked closely with some very good welders,in repair there is a lot of machine/weld/machine operations so we worked as a team.That and 15 years of doing my own welding at home,I can now saw that I can weld "most" things It aint always pretty but it dont fail.
Get a box take a course or two and start burning rod/wire,trust me ti's FUN.

[averagef250]

No reason you can't stick weld 20 gauge beside lacking experience with doing it. Wire feed is easier to use on sheetmetal for a beginner.

To fill your trim holes use a thick copper backer that fits tight to the contour of the sheetmetal, use small wire (.023) at low heat and practice plenty before welding on your good panels.

Just a hint- When you practice to weld a panel make sure the piece you're practicing on is the same gauge as the final panel. It's hard to eyeball the difference between 18 and 20 gauge, but it makes a big difference in the setting up of your machine.

[eggman918]

A good friend of mine found that welding body metal He would use a piece of 2"x1/2" brass flat stock use it to back sheet metal leaving a 1/8" gap between the two steel sheets
clamp sheets to brass then use the mig .He would run a bead into the center of the gap it would hit the brass flow into both sheets of steel,he ran 1" at a time tapped it with a
hammer to flatten it then do it again in another spot so you dont get it too hot in one spot. the brass serves as a heat sink and keeps it in line.
when he was finished he made a front fender for a '59 chevy truck from the pieces of four fenders and if I had not seen it done I would not have believed it,the fender was
like a new one. It is a hell of a trick,made the job easy and a nice finished product.You might give this a try if you have long seams to do.

[stephen44]

I bought a gas ready hobart 140 - i run easy-grind 0.023 wire in it and I love it !

Stephen

[torquemonger]

wow thanks guys, i really appreciate all the tips and how to's! now all i need is the cash i'm not sure if i'd be talented enough for the stick on sheet metal, maybe i should use the easier mig for my skill set thanks again to all of your replies. anymore tips and tricks are greatly appreciated keep'em coming

[Don H]

I started with a lincoln 110v mig and found it was very good for the sheetmetal work but not so much for anything thicker. I now have a Lincoln 180 220v model and have found it to be a great all around machine. When I look back at what I spent on the first welder I kick myself for not buying the bigger one first. But I did just what you're saying " I only want to weld a couple of pieces of sheetmetal" Once I started using the welder it's limitations showed up and I found myself having to buy a better one. Any way my suggestion is to buy the best equipment you can afford. Not only does it make the job easier you will be amazed at all the things you will use it for. Just my

[OldRedFord]

Far as stick welding sheet metal, check out this thread I started. Good info here.

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/sho ... hp?t=22515