Frame restoration

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jellybean
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Frame restoration

Post by jellybean »

Now I am about to start on my new frame. I want to remove the spring hangers to clean and paint behind them. Can I just grind off the old rivets? What should I replace them with? I know I will use a bolt of some type, any size idea or nut requirements?
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ICEMAN6166
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re: Frame restoration

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

you can grind off the rivets, and replace with bolts, at least a grade 8, and with a locking type nut. not sure what the thread size is, try out a few bolts in the holes before you go buy the ones you are going to use.
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averagef250
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Post by averagef250 »

Hot rivet strength is hard to match with bolts. You can hot rivet the hangers back on with simple tools. Rivets make for such a tight fit that it's unlikely there is any rust under the brackets.
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Post by jellybean »

The original frame rusted out between the front (rear) spring hanger and the frame. The metal got thin and there were pin holes everywhere. The meatl was almost flakeing apart. I want to do something to prevent it from happening to this frame. I had to look a long time to find it.
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ICEMAN6166
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re: Frame restoration

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

they rust out because the area gets filled with dirt and little rocks ,there is a drain hole on the bottom of the hanger.cant say how many of those i have cleaned out before but its one of the first things i look at on a truck.
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you can ford a river or stream and get to the other side, if you dodge it you will not, and if you drive a chevy to the levee it will run dry and the music will die.
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Big D's 69
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Post by Big D's 69 »

I agree with the bolt idea. Every lowering kit I have dealt with have come with bolts to bolt the new drop hangers on them. If they are good enough and safe enough for companies to sell then it is good enough to bolt them back on with. Just make sure you use like said above a grade bolt with lock washers and possible the nylock nuts also.
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Post by jellybean »

OK. Grade 8 bolts and nylon locking washers. Anyone know what size?
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FORDification
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re: Frame restoration

Post by FORDification »

Just make sure that the bolts you use are exactly the same size as the hole. You don't want to use a bolt with a smaller diameter (even a LITTLE bit) than the hole, 'cause things WILL move around on you, no matter how tight you think you have them. That's why the rivets really are better.

Personally, I think if you just leave the spring brackets on, sandblast them both and then paint them, the paint is going to seal the two together more than adequately....and you don't run the risk of your entire suspension moving around on you.
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Faithful Old Road Dog
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re: Frame restoration

Post by Faithful Old Road Dog »

I'd opt for the hot rivets. But if you're stuck on Grade 8's, there are grade 8 lock nuts. The threaded hole is eccentric.
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ICEMAN6166
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Re: re: Frame restoration

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

FORDification wrote:Just make sure that the bolts you use are exactly the same size as the hole. You don't want to use a bolt with a smaller diameter (even a LITTLE bit) than the hole, 'cause things WILL move around on you, no matter how tight you think you have them. That's why the rivets really are better.
very good point.
however not everyone has the ability or tools to do the hot rivets, and even some spring shops use bolts when replacing the spring mounting parts.
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you can ford a river or stream and get to the other side, if you dodge it you will not, and if you drive a chevy to the levee it will run dry and the music will die.
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re: Frame restoration

Post by FORDification »

True, but if needed you can always drill out the mounting holes to match a slightly larger bolt...which is a much better idea then using a smaller bolt and trying to tighten it up.
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
ImageImageImage
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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