Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Questions about 4WDs and related topics

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1971ford
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

You can definately keep the shock mounting point below the top of the bedside, however you might sacrafice travel by doing so.People are getting about 18" of travel with the Chevy packs, so to be able to have a shock for all that travel you will have to extend above the bedside. Or you can just cut your travel down a tad. Or lean your shocks forward a lot, however there are many views on how this can affect your shocks ability to do its job properly.

I'm not sure what you mean by everyone running Chevy packs spring-under in that thread, everyone runs them spring over, like stock. However, everyone is talking about how to make it possible to go spring under for the benefits but no one knows how much you would have to arch the pack because no on has done spring under yet.
You can use your stock lower shock mounts on the axle but those mounts are ready to get nailed by a rock.
Here's a picture of a spring plate mounted shock, pretty common on race trucks (not as much street driven daily drivers)
Image
Regarding spare holders... anything can be made removable :thup:
Just instead of having the support tubes welded straight to the frame (or bed bolts if the spare tire carrier is different structure than shock mount), have a bushing in between the frame and tire carrier stucture, if that makes sense.
-Ryan
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by Tycho »

1971ford wrote:You can definately keep the shock mounting point below the top of the bedside, however you might sacrafice travel by doing so.People are getting about 18" of travel with the Chevy packs, so to be able to have a shock for all that travel you will have to extend above the bedside. Or you can just cut your travel down a tad. Or lean your shocks forward a lot, however there are many views on how this can affect your shocks ability to do its job properly.
I realize that, it's just frustrating that I can't move forward without one thing or the other. Without the chevy swap, I can't properly plan for a bedcage. And vice-versa. I think I'll pay one of the local shops to do it (any views on long drop brackets like the ballistic kit gives you?) if not just for the better ride quality even without the shocks. My stock leafs suck ass.

What's the deal with trailing arms? I see a lot of semi-serious trucks running them.

Also, do I have any other options as far as shock mounting goes (perhaps using a higher quality shock that can handle an exteme angle? bypass?) or even a coil-over in the back?

Edit: With 18" travel approx what size shock should I be buying?
1971ford wrote: Just instead of having the support tubes welded straight to the frame (or bed bolts if the spare tire carrier is different structure than shock mount), have a bushing in between the frame and tire carrier stucture, if that makes sense.
Can I avoid having the cage go directly over the frame? Like, having supports underneath the bed (or tube directly on top of the bed but flat as to avoid taking up space) tie into the frame rather than the traditional approach (yours) The frame on the bump side is so narrow with respect to how large the actual truck is, so all the pretty modern trucks can have bed cages that sit relatively to the outside without any issues since their frames are wider. In the picture I mocked up the yellow line is an approximation of the frame going off your pictures. I forgot to take a distance shot showing both frame and bed, but pictures from your build thread worked just fine. I was able to count 3 bed channels from the wheel wells in as the location of the frame.
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by theskytoucher »

Tycho wrote:
Bedcage Mockup:
Image
Image

I suck at drawing in 3D :evil:

Green are the "shocks"
Red is the cage
I think you might want to rethink your shock design, You are putting them at a pretty steep angle which is going to be prone to sheer off!
-Troy-

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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

Tycho wrote:
1971ford wrote:You can definately keep the shock mounting point below the top of the bedside, however you might sacrafice travel by doing so.People are getting about 18" of travel with the Chevy packs, so to be able to have a shock for all that travel you will have to extend above the bedside. Or you can just cut your travel down a tad. Or lean your shocks forward a lot, however there are many views on how this can affect your shocks ability to do its job properly.
I realize that, it's just frustrating that I can't move forward without one thing or the other. Without the chevy swap, I can't properly plan for a bedcage. And vice-versa. I think I'll pay one of the local shops to do it (any views on long drop brackets like the ballistic kit gives you?) if not just for the better ride quality even without the shocks. My stock leafs suck ass.

What's the deal with trailing arms? I see a lot of semi-serious trucks running them.

Also, do I have any other options as far as shock mounting goes (perhaps using a higher quality shock that can handle an exteme angle? bypass?) or even a coil-over in the back?

Edit: With 18" travel approx what size shock should I be buying?
I'm not sure what long drop brackets you are talking about :? But yeah you kinda need all the things to put it all together at once. I actually have some extra cash right now , i can pick up some chevy 64's and start working on them and drawing out a plan. Ive seen them for $50 on my local craigslist quite a few times. Then it will be $70ish to re-arch them i'm guessing. I'll run my stock shackles for now, just move the hangers apart.
Ive actually realized my stock f250 packs with a few leaves pulled are better than i would of ever expected. I can barely feel speed bumps. I only get like 10" of travel though.
Are you referring to trailing arms as in a 4 link? or 2 link to go with your springs? A 2 link to go with your leaf sprung rearend is for axle-wrap reasons. You rearend will want to twist under the torque of the engine causing your springs to eventually break but it's not something to worry to much about too much. Many race leaf sprung race trucks don't even bother with 2 links.
4 links are a very expensive alternative to leaf springs that gives you more travel and leaf springs can never be as soft as them. You run a 4 link with atleast a coilover, usually a bypass to go with it. This setup will cost you more than $10,000 including the new rearend, shocks, arms, etc.

It's not that the shock angle is bad for your shocks, it's how well they work when put at a severe angle. You won't be breaking shocks unless you do something very wrong. There are many threads on the forums like dezertrangers of them talking about how shocks work at severe angles.
You wouldn't run a coilover with leaves. You either run a 4 link (no leaves) with coilovers, or you run leaf springs with any shock other than a coilover really. It's one or the other. The coils are like your leaf springs.
Just run a smooth body (no bypasses) 16" (or 18", whichever you can afford) 2.5 or 3.0 resevoir shock. a 2.0 shock would be overheated fast with our heavy trucks, a 2.5 might do it, but a 3.0 will insure you don't lose your shock absorbtion half way through your offroadingness.
1971ford wrote: Just instead of having the support tubes welded straight to the frame (or bed bolts if the spare tire carrier is different structure than shock mount), have a bushing in between the frame and tire carrier stucture, if that makes sense.
Can I avoid having the cage go directly over the frame? Like, having supports underneath the bed (or tube directly on top of the bed but flat as to avoid taking up space) tie into the frame rather than the traditional approach (yours) The frame on the bump side is so narrow with respect to how large the actual truck is, so all the pretty modern trucks can have bed cages that sit relatively to the outside without any issues since their frames are wider. In the picture I mocked up the yellow line is an approximation of the frame going off your pictures. I forgot to take a distance shot showing both frame and bed, but pictures from your build thread worked just fine. I was able to count 3 bed channels from the wheel wells in as the location of the frame.[/quote]



theskytoucher wrote: I think you might want to rethink your shock design, You are putting them at a pretty steep angle which is going to be prone to sheer off!
Along the lines of breaking shocks, shock angle isn't a big worry. You souldn't break shocks with just angling them, it is just a matter of how they work when put at an angle compared to how the axle moves during cycle.
As long as you have a nice strong upper shock mount or intersection where it mounts then you should be fine.
-Ryan
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by theskytoucher »

Can you explain better what you mena by how they work?
-Troy-

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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

I'm really not familiar with how exactly shocks work at different angles and how a severe angle can affect your ride exactly but that is what i have heard multiple times on the offroad forums. It has to do with how the shock will be angled at full bump for one thing.
If the shocks are angled far forward, think of how they will look while at full bump... they will start being more horizontal than anything, and there is no way a shock can work as well being nearly horrizontal as it would being more vertical. From what i have read, the ideal shock position for many is a slight tilt forward, because as the axle comes up it also comes forward i guess. A lot to do with it is just how well you take advantage of the travel your shock has potential for. Few people run a slight tilt back, it depends on how you think the axle is going to move. It's just about the geometry, which i don't know much about, so I'll stop talking now :wink:
Last edited by 1971ford on Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

3/4 the way down
4) Here is the heart of this entire project......finding the upper shock mount. There are several things to keep in mind during the cycling. For one, you want to use the entire shock stroke of the shock while using all of your wheel travel. This implies that the shock must be mounted at a certain angle and point in space that is nearly compressed at full suspension bump, and fully extended at full suspension droop. You can't just decide on a random angle and place, the suspension has to be cycled to determine these points. We devised a rather nice way to find this point without tedious trial and error. First we securely attached a wood panel along the frame rail that ran roughly parallel with the area we estimated the shock would be mounted (it is very important that this panel does not move). Then we drooped the suspension fully and extended the shock which is still mounted to the lower shock mount on the spring plate. Putting a pencil through the upper shock eye, we traced an arc on the wooden panel. Along this arc are the possible mounting points that would allow the shock to be fully topped out while the suspension is fully drooped. After that, we fully compressed the suspension, axle to frame (you will need to remove your bumpstops for this). Then we fully compressed the shock, leaving about 1/2" uncompressed. Using the same method, we put the pencil through the upper eye of the shock and traced another arc on the wood panel. This will determine the possible mounting points that will have the shock fully compressed at full suspension bump. Now you will notice something interesting, these arcs intersect. The point at which these arcs intersect is the one point that will allow the shock to be both fully extended at full suspension droop, and fully compressed at full suspension bump. For further reference, check the instructional video here. (Big thanks to Kris Hernandez for the 3d modeling)
http://www.desertrides.com/reference/bedcage.php
-Ryan
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by theskytoucher »

That is exactly what i needed thank you!! s i am getting ready to build a suspension on a truck i needed to now exactly how to mount it!
-Troy-

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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by Tycho »

No luck on Az fabbers, or paint shops. I'm about to give up.

edit: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1500565515.html

Good deal?
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

theskytoucher wrote:That is exactly what i needed thank you!! s i am getting ready to build a suspension on a truck i needed to now exactly how to mount it!
no problem i remembered about that right up from a while ago. Just make sure you post pics for us and update on the build...

Tycho wrote:No luck on Az fabbers, or paint shops. I'm about to give up.

edit: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1500565515.html

Good deal?
How dare you think about giving up :eek:
I say who cares about paint. rattle can it! Or roll it on.
If you can't find an AZ fabber then you can still get the truck up to the point where mine is at, minus the cage. Do the front end, that doesn't require fab work, and for the rear, get new f100 packs and pull a couple leaves, new shocks, run that for a while :thup:
I don't know a lot about rearends but that seems to be a decent deal. Stick your pumpkin in it :) . It is trussed, supposively aftermarket axles, disk setup sounds nice for the extra $100
Might want to see how wide it is though if you go for the buy.
-Ryan
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by Tycho »

1971ford wrote: How dare you think about giving up :eek:
Well, I posted on Dezert Rangers and haven't gotten any good replies. So it seems the scene around here is either tight knitt, or sucks. Leaning towards sucks.
1971ford wrote: I say who cares about paint. rattle can it! Or roll it on.
Going to spray it with SEM trim paint sometime this week. Probably on my own. It will be a train wreck. Oh yes. Any tips for rattle-canning? I know to warm them up in water first. But as far as overlap, distance etc.. goes? Im going to do the inside of the tailgate or maybe a patch of bed as a trial run. No primer. It's already primed for the most part. How many cans am I going to need? I guessed 20 x 20oz cans.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... stcount=42
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/atta ... 1243400789
Image
1971ford wrote: If you can't find an AZ fabber then you can still get the truck up to the point where mine is at, minus the cage. Do the front end, that doesn't require fab work, and for the rear, get new f100 packs and pull a couple leaves, new shocks, run that for a while :thup:
Going to just wait to do anything else until I find someone out here competent enough. If you want to make me a bumper (or someone else out there make me a bumper) for $$$ I'm all ears. You have the measurements needed already. Shipping isn't bad, only 75-100$ for ground on a 100lb package.
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by theskytoucher »

Depending on what you want for a bumper i might be able to fab you up something!
-Troy-

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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by theskytoucher »

And i will definetyl be posting a build on my truck event hough it is a dent side i think it still fits the category close enough!
-Troy-

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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

Tycho wrote:
1971ford wrote: How dare you think about giving up :eek:
Well, I posted on Dezert Rangers and haven't gotten any good replies. So it seems the scene around here is either tight knitt, or sucks. Leaning towards sucks.
1971ford wrote: I say who cares about paint. rattle can it! Or roll it on.
Going to spray it with SEM trim paint sometime this week. Probably on my own. It will be a train wreck. Oh yes. Any tips for rattle-canning? I know to warm them up in water first. But as far as overlap, distance etc.. goes? Im going to do the inside of the tailgate or maybe a patch of bed as a trial run. No primer. It's already primed for the most part. How many cans am I going to need? I guessed 20 x 20oz cans.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... stcount=42
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/atta ... 1243400789
Image
1971ford wrote: If you can't find an AZ fabber then you can still get the truck up to the point where mine is at, minus the cage. Do the front end, that doesn't require fab work, and for the rear, get new f100 packs and pull a couple leaves, new shocks, run that for a while :thup:
Going to just wait to do anything else until I find someone out here competent enough. If you want to make me a bumper (or someone else out there make me a bumper) for $$$ I'm all ears. You have the measurements needed already. Shipping isn't bad, only 75-100$ for ground on a 100lb package.
I just sanded my truck down, nothing fancy, i didn't even use a long block. Just squishy palm block. I figure it's a desert truck, it doesn't need to be purty. I do plan on actaully giving a better paintjob and making it look really clean, pulling all the stickers off, etc.
Rattlecans... i told you i take pictures of everything :wink:
I think this just about did it. I painted white over dark blue so i did need quite a bit. About 15 cans.
Image
and just for fun, since i was in that folder. Look at all the overspray! haha how embarassing. I spent twice as much time as the paintjob cleaning my windows relaly good from all the spray.
Image

If i had a good bender, I would build you a bumper and send it to you just for cost of materials and shipping. I wish i had a bender :(
-Ryan
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Re: Calling all f100/f250 Prerunners

Post by 1971ford »

Troy,
That would be great to see you guys work together :D
I can't wait to see your build! Dentsides are still way cool :thup:
-Ryan
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