'71 F-100 has been sitting for 19 years.

[derek7871]

So, after 19 years, what needs to be done before trying to start it? I changed the oil and filter yesterday. I know the gas is bad and has to come out. I've ordered plugs and wires, cap, rotor button and a new fuel pump. I'm sure the carb is going to need some attention. Also, a new battery and fluid and filter change for the C6. By the way, is has a 302.
Left me hear some of your idea.

Thanks,
Derek

[rumblin46]

Pull the distributor, remove both valve covers. 5/16 socket and extension on a drill will engage on the oil pump shaft, run the drill in reverse until you see oil running up every pushrod.

Have you checked to see if the engine turns freely?

[Ranchero50]

Ditto, what condition was it stored in? Typically I won't spend money on a carcass until it gives me reason to. Check the oil and as long as it's not chocolate milk it'll suffice to get it running. Check the coolant but don't fret if it's low or empty as you don't need it to fire the engine off. Pull the plugs, squirt some oil in the bores and roll the motor over with a 15/16" socket on the crank. If it rolls over smoothly put a battery in it and see if it'll crank over from the key without smoking something in the wiring. At the same time have a spark plug in the coil wire to see if you get a consistent spark from the coil. After cranking over for a bit you should have fuel to the carb. If it stinks, disconnect the tank and use a jug of fresh gas to get it running.

With the plugs back in and fresh fuel it should fire off. If not you have a minimal investment.

[Ranchero50]

Pull the distributor, remove both valve covers. 5/16 socket and extension on a drill will engage on the oil pump shaft, run the drill in reverse until you see oil running up every pushrod.

Have you checked to see if the engine turns freely?

Been a while but I'm pretty sure it was a 1/4" for a 302 and a 5/16 for a 351w. Not sure about the others.

[rumblin46]

Pull the distributor, remove both valve covers. 5/16 socket and extension on a drill will engage on the oil pump shaft, run the drill in reverse until you see oil running up every pushrod.

Have you checked to see if the engine turns freely?

Been a while but I'm pretty sure it was a 1/4" for a 302 and a 5/16 for a 351w. Not sure about the others.

It is 1/4. I typed 5/16 and 5 mins later realized I screwed up!

[derek7871]

Thanks for the info. It's given me some ideas and things to do. I'm wanting to go work on it more tomorrow.

[tsherry]

Plan on replacing all of the rubber fuel lines in the vehicle, start with the rubber line from the tank to the rigid line. This one in particular has given me trouble on two vehicles after long naps--the fuel corroded the inside of the rubber, causing it to separate from the outer shell. Would suck shut on demand from the fuel pump, stalling the engine.

Other than what has already been covered above, that's my $0.02.

[derek7871]

Made a little progress. Got the oil changed, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, battery cables, air filter, fuel pump and filter. I checked the gas tank with a broom handle and there was no liquid gas in it. However, there was about 2" of sludge/rust/gas residue in the bottom of the tank. Looks like a new gas tank and blow out the hard lines and replace the rubber ones. Other than damage from sitting a long time, the truck looks pretty good. Very little rust compared to my '68.

I did try to manually rotate the engine with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. I was unable to move it.....hopefully I was fighting compression??? All the plugs were already back in when I tried it.

[Ranchero50]

I did try to manually rotate the engine with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. I was unable to move it.....hopefully I was fighting compression??? All the plugs were already back in when I tried it.

Did you read my original post? Quit wasting money on new parts until you assess the engine.

[derek7871]

Is clockwise the correct direction to try to spin the crank pulley?

[rumblin46]

You should take ranchero50s advice. It sounds like the engine is stuck. The rotation of the engine is referenced from the drivers seat, counterclockwise. So clockwise standing at the front of the truck. Again, not to be a turd, but reread rancheros initial post.

Where are you located?

[derek7871]

TN.

[Ranchero50]

Sounds like it's stuck. Pull the plugs and fill the bores with ATF and let it sit for a week or two. Then try to rock the breaker bar back and forth. Should take around 20-30 ftlbs to rotate once it's loose without the plugs in. Some of it will end up in the oil pan with your new oil. A little ATF won't hurt the oil but this is why you assess the motor before spending money on it.

Good luck and be patient.

[hillcountryflt]

when you get to the point of fooling with the fuel tank, you might check with a radiator shop. I took mine in to a local shop and they pressure-washed with insides with some new device they had and then treated it with some fuel tank sealer. Cost $300, which is about the same as a new tank minus shipping. That was about 7 months ago. No issues yet.

[sargentrs]

Helped a friend score a free '79 dent 4wd that had been sitting 14 years. Got it home and the 351M was locked up tight. Poured Marvel Mystery Oil in the park plug holes and let it sit a week while he tried to work it with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. Got nowhere until he held heavy torque on the breaker bar and bumped the starter over, just a quick bump. After about 10-20 bumps like that it moved ever so slightly. He kept working it back and forth like that every day after work for a week. Finally got a full revolution and it started getting easier. Eventually got it to spin with the starter. New plugs and some gas in the carb and it eventually started. Had to replace all the rubber hoses and gaskets and some other repairs but got it running and drove it daily a few years before trading it off on another truck. Not.bad for free.