*UPDATE* No more current drain, but truck won't start

[bluef250]

Does starter solenoid chatter when key is turned to start? What all have you done?

[morganater]

Does starter solenoid chatter when key is turned to start? What all have you done?

YES! It will chatter clicking sounds if i turn the ignition half-way to start, otherwisewhen i turn the key all the way to start it will just crank barely like it has no juice. I dont think the starter is going bad, that is not what
the truck is doing, becuase I've had that happen before.

this is confusing me becuase all the other electronic accessories on the truck work fine and dont lose any power or anything. I have replaced the voltage regulator, and that seemed to have stopped the current draw. This problem seems like it could be a million things. Any ideas now, anyone?

[ak-1970-360]

start doing the diagnostics that the guys have told you about. i think that will work best. i have had my battery do that for a short period of time but thats because its cold here.
im just as in the dark as you so im keepin up on this so i will know what to do if my trucks starts the same problems.

[NM5K]

Like Jor said, check it with the ignition off, then with the engine running. To be more accurate, standard voltages are 12.?, 13.6, and 14.4, with the 13.6 meaning a slightly weak or overloaded alternator, 14.4 in standard operation, and 12.? sitting.>>>>>

14.4 volts is "full float" charge voltage. IE: if you hook a battery up to a charger, and charge until it's fully charged, the voltage will read appx 14.4,
*as long* as the charger is connected, and supplying a low current trickle charge. 13.8 volts is the voltage a fully charged battery will show immediately after *unhooking* the charger. As the battery sits a while, the voltage will start to drop into the 12.6, etc range... Running a battery at full float, IE: 14.4 volts is not too good for them , when done for extended periods. It's in this state, that the batteries start to overheat, and you will see a loss of electrolyte/water over time.
This is the purpose of the "automatic" chargers. When an automatic charger reaches full float, "14.4v", the charging will cease, and the voltage will sink on down to 13.8. If the voltage starts to dip much lower than that, the charging will resume until it reaches 14.4, and then cut off again...Over and over...This prevents overheating. I use battery power, and an automatic charger here in this room to power many of my radios. IE: My icom 706mk2 is on battery power.
Kind of handy...if the lights go out, I'm still on the air. I also have an inverter for backup power...The best way to actually check a lead acid battery is by using a hydrometer to check the cells one at a time. MK

[NM5K]

YES! It will chatter clicking sounds if i turn the ignition half-way to start, otherwisewhen i turn the key all the way to start it will just crank barely like it has no juice. I dont think the starter is going bad, that is not what
the truck is doing, becuase I've had that happen before. >>>>>

Maybe not, but might be worth checking, just to be sure....The auto parts stores can test them. Not sure about your sounds...Is the battery fully charged, when you get those results? Or is that before recharging? I'd check all connections and wiring from the battery, starter, etc...Make sure none are corroded up, or fraying wire...Will cause excess resistance. That causes heat, and the bad junction will eventually burn up/fry, and cause even more resistance... When my last starter went out, it pretty much mimicked your problems...Would turn slower and slower each day, until it finally balked and spewed some smoke from it's innerds... Normally, a starter that does that, will feel pretty hot after doing that for a while...MK

[morganater]

OK, Well the truck is no longer drawing current just sitting there. Here is what I have done so far:
~replaced volatage regulator
~checked all battery and starter power wires

Everything on the truck electrical works well, lights are bright, etc. but then when I try to crank it over, it wont start because it acts like it barely has any juice, and when cranking it, all of the other electrical devices will lose all their power until i stop trying to crank it. Could this be a bad starter relay?

[68F250]

Sounds like starter drawing too much current, pull it and have tested. If it is, pick up a new solenoid 'cause yours has gone through a lot.

[oldschoolrods]

Sounds like starter drawing too much current, pull it and have tested. If it is, pick up a new solenoid 'cause yours has gone through a lot.

yep, i agree the loss of all other devices during cranking is a good indication of that. Like he said pull it and get it tested, it'll only cost a few bucks for a new one...i think.

[morganater]

Alright, sounds like a plan. This has been kind of a mysterious problem because It has been more than one problem all wrapped into one. At least the drain is fixed . I wonder how a starter and voltage regulator could just happen to go out at the same time?

[shrektruck]

Likely one caused the other. When we have an electrical fault on the ship there's a mad rush to shut down all the associated electronics to prevent "cascading casualties."
Frequently a bad regulator will burn up several other pieces on its way out, My last one was an ignition module.
Glad you're on the tail end of this one.

[willowbilly3]

OOPS! never mind

[morganater]

Found out flickering was the new voltage regulator sparking on some other ****, so i taped it off and made it so it can't short any more. But then I removed the ground from the battery, and the truck kept running but right when I removed it, a large spark came from the headlight and the headlights died and won't come on anymore.I checked the fuses but I dont know what happened? (now without the headlights working it seems like the rev-brightness fluctuation is muchl less/diminished????) Still seems like It draws too much current from the starter when trying to start it, becuase it wont start. But the batt. holds good charge; so i am going to go get a good starter, and wrap it up well, becuase i'm gunna be installing some headers soon.

[willowbilly3]

Never pull a battery cable with the engine running. I realize many have used this method to see if the system was charging but without the battery in the system it will full charge and with no battery to absorb the current, it will fry things, like headlights. If you had a good stereo it is probably gone too. Doing this on a computer controlled car could lighten your wallet considerably. Did you rev the engine when you had the cable off? You probably shot 18 volts or so through those headlights.

[morganater]

LMFAO! WHO TOLD ME TO DO THAT !!!!!!
All that got fried was the headlights... Engine was just idling, thats It. No stereo or anything else and all the other lights look fine. LMAO way to cause another problem trying to solve another. At least i know the alternator is fine Looks like I'll have to go get some new headlights now?

[jor]

Hey, Morgan. Did you ever do the diagnostics that have been suggested. If you simply replace parts you may not eliminate the problem. I may have missed something in all of these posts but when you have a slightly low battery everything will work fine except the starter. So the fact that the starter turns over slowly is not necessarily indicative of a bad starter. Let us know.
jor