Initial timing showing 35° BTDC?

[mnlamont]

Hey everyone, I’m pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I’m relatively new to working on cars and just trying to learn everything that I can. I am working on a 460 in my 1970 F250 camper special. Obviously not the original motor. As I’m trying to get this thing timed and the carb adjusted, in addition to chasing some sort of a vacuum leak in my carb, when I put the timing light on it it shows like 35° BTDC. I’m thinking that the distributor is set in a tooth off, and I need to pull it out and re-stab it one tooth counterclockwise? Am I thinking about that right? One tooth off changing the timing mark on the balancer by around 30°? Thanks everyone for your help.

[basketcase0302]

="mnlamont"Hey everyone, I’m pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I’m relatively new to working on cars and just trying to learn everything that I can. I am working on a 460 in my 1970 F250 camper special. Obviously not the original motor. As I’m trying to get this thing timed and the carb adjusted, in addition to chasing some sort of a vacuum leak in my carb, when I put the timing light on it it shows like 35° BTDC. I’m thinking that the distributor is set in a tooth off, and I need to pull it out and re-stab it one tooth counterclockwise? Am I thinking about that right? One tooth off changing the timing mark on the balancer by around 30°? Thanks everyone for your help.

It's hard for me to believe it would even start if you're reading 35 degrees BTDC!
It would for sure have a dieseling/pinging effect at the timing that will do engine damage if not corrected!
And yes if you have a vacuum leak you'll have to advance the timing to try to keep it running/idling so that needs to be addressed before getting the timing right.

And I wouldn't try moving the dizzy just a tooth, I'd start from scratch and nail it right the first time. A remote starter button is your best friend for this and many other engine diagnostics similar to this procedure, (every big box auto parts store has them on the shelf-I make my own).
1) Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, (I always use my finger in the plug hole to tell the difference between the compression stroke). The cylinder pressure will blow your finger off the plug hole as the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, (not for the "timid" as it's scary the first time you do this on an engine with decent compression. Use a pencil/anything wood to final crank the cylinder up and verify it is at TDC (where now the timing mark on your balancer should be lined up showing TDC).

2) Pop the dizzy cap and see how close the rotor button was/is to lining up with #1 plug wire on the dizzy cap.

3) If not aligned by or close to the #1 plug wire now pull the dizzy and determine which direction you need to go based on the previous dizzy cap and rotor alignment.

[sparky72]

You wouldn’t happen to have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum, would you?

[mnlamont]

You wouldn’t happen to have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum, would you?

No vacuum advance on my distributor. It’s a Mallory unilite.

[mnlamont]

="mnlamont"Hey everyone, I’m pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I’m relatively new to working on cars and just trying to learn everything that I can. I am working on a 460 in my 1970 F250 camper special. Obviously not the original motor. As I’m trying to get this thing timed and the carb adjusted, in addition to chasing some sort of a vacuum leak in my carb, when I put the timing light on it it shows like 35° BTDC. I’m thinking that the distributor is set in a tooth off, and I need to pull it out and re-stab it one tooth counterclockwise? Am I thinking about that right? One tooth off changing the timing mark on the balancer by around 30°? Thanks everyone for your help.

It's hard for me to believe it would even start if you're reading 35 degrees BTDC!
It would for sure have a dieseling/pinging effect at the timing that will do engine damage if not corrected!
And yes if you have a vacuum leak you'll have to advance the timing to try to keep it running/idling so that needs to be addressed before getting the timing right.

And I wouldn't try moving the dizzy just a tooth, I'd start from scratch and nail it right the first time. A remote starter button is your best friend for this and many other engine diagnostics similar to this procedure, (every big box auto parts store has them on the shelf-I make my own).
1) Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, (I always use my finger in the plug hole to tell the difference between the compression stroke). The cylinder pressure will blow your finger off the plug hole as the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, (not for the "timid" as it's scary the first time you do this on an engine with decent compression. Use a pencil/anything wood to final crank the cylinder up and verify it is at TDC (where now the timing mark on your balancer should be lined up showing TDC).

2) Pop the dizzy cap and see how close the rotor button was/is to lining up with #1 plug wire on the dizzy cap.

3) If not aligned by or close to the #1 plug wire now pull the dizzy and determine which direction you need to go based on the previous dizzy cap and rotor alignment.

Yeah that’s how I found TDC to begin with. I just bought a piston stop So I’m going to carefully crank it over by hand and find my exact TDC, and then try to re-stab in the distributor. I also just bought a reman duraspark and module that is on its way, so I will be redoing it anyway.

[basketcase0302]

Love...Duraspark!
I'd found the box either works or it doesn't fire at all in all the years I ran them, (but beware of cheap boxes as the red box "Standard" brand used to come new defective). Highly recommend a NAPA or other brand name to avoid having to buy a 2nd to troubleshoot.

I got my username "Basketcase" due to Duraspark too. I bought an old style 76' Bronco in the early 80's that the PO had given up on, (due to it frying the Duraspark box). It took me 3 boxes before I pulled the wiring harness apart, (unraveling all the electric tape and thoroughly inspecting every inch of every wire took me weeks)! I found where two wires had been pierced with a screw and would short together INTERMITTENTLY-ONLY WHEN YOU HIT A HARD BUMP! Liquid electric tape with some heat shrink had me driving the Bronco another 10 years on the road trouble free.