'69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
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'69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
This is how she started out. 360 C6, with drop beams, hanger flip and Scarebird front discs. I drove her like this for 2 years, and loved every minute of it.
Picked up my CV off Craigslist.
Got it all tore apart and cleaned up.
Started pulling the truck apart, early Sept 2017.
Pulled the motor and trans out together, then sold them. I'm not 100%, but leaning 6.0 LS.
Pulled the front suspension off and sold the I-beams, brakes, and wheels.
Braced the frame and started with the horrible task of removing rivets. Got the spring towers off.
Cut the crossmember out. I thought this would be the worst part, but a 4 1/2" angle grinder did most of the work and I was pleasantly surprised how well it went.
Assembled the CV off the car with all new parts. Notice the 14" rotors and Corvette C6 calipers. I saw this upgrade on the Marauder forum and its a cheap upgrade.
Measured a million times and drilled...and somehow still being off a hair.
Bought new sleeves from Ford and drilled holes for them.
Checked that it all fit and burned it in.
Painted the frame back to the cab.
Picked up these Mustang GT/CS 19" wheels. I wanted black wheels and I think these will look sweet.
Bought an 8.8 out of an '01 Explorer with 3.73 posi. Had to pull it myself, but for $75 it was a no-brainer. I tore it apart, replaced the axle bearings and seals, installed the Ford Racing carbon clutches, replaced all the brake parts, and made it pretty.
Upgraded the u-bolts to 5/8.
Because the perches are slightly narrower than the 9" I chose to redrill the holes instead of cutting off the perches or bending the springs in. Stuck a 1/2" copper pipe in the new hole and welded up the other.
Bolted the 8.8 in. Notice the slightly offset perches. Still contemplating a c-notch, although I'll probably go ahead and do it.
Looks like I'll need some shims.
Bought a Tanks Inc EFI Mustang 22 gallon tank with internal pump and baffling. I made a 1" tube frame for it and initially mounted the tank on top on the frame. That however made the tank sit too high in the frame rails. So I mounted the frame on top and now the tank is sandwiched between the frame rails and the tank frame. I welded a bracket to the front and now it all bolts in with J-nuts. The rear of the tank frame also has J-nuts and it bolts directly to the frame from the bottom. I also had to modify the rear crossmember and weld nuts inside it. There isn't a good way to get a wrench back there, so now I don't need to. I will have to also weld nuts in the frame for the bumper brackets.
Hopefully this week I can get the rack mounted and start working on the steering shaft and u-joints.
Picked up my CV off Craigslist.
Got it all tore apart and cleaned up.
Started pulling the truck apart, early Sept 2017.
Pulled the motor and trans out together, then sold them. I'm not 100%, but leaning 6.0 LS.
Pulled the front suspension off and sold the I-beams, brakes, and wheels.
Braced the frame and started with the horrible task of removing rivets. Got the spring towers off.
Cut the crossmember out. I thought this would be the worst part, but a 4 1/2" angle grinder did most of the work and I was pleasantly surprised how well it went.
Assembled the CV off the car with all new parts. Notice the 14" rotors and Corvette C6 calipers. I saw this upgrade on the Marauder forum and its a cheap upgrade.
Measured a million times and drilled...and somehow still being off a hair.
Bought new sleeves from Ford and drilled holes for them.
Checked that it all fit and burned it in.
Painted the frame back to the cab.
Picked up these Mustang GT/CS 19" wheels. I wanted black wheels and I think these will look sweet.
Bought an 8.8 out of an '01 Explorer with 3.73 posi. Had to pull it myself, but for $75 it was a no-brainer. I tore it apart, replaced the axle bearings and seals, installed the Ford Racing carbon clutches, replaced all the brake parts, and made it pretty.
Upgraded the u-bolts to 5/8.
Because the perches are slightly narrower than the 9" I chose to redrill the holes instead of cutting off the perches or bending the springs in. Stuck a 1/2" copper pipe in the new hole and welded up the other.
Bolted the 8.8 in. Notice the slightly offset perches. Still contemplating a c-notch, although I'll probably go ahead and do it.
Looks like I'll need some shims.
Bought a Tanks Inc EFI Mustang 22 gallon tank with internal pump and baffling. I made a 1" tube frame for it and initially mounted the tank on top on the frame. That however made the tank sit too high in the frame rails. So I mounted the frame on top and now the tank is sandwiched between the frame rails and the tank frame. I welded a bracket to the front and now it all bolts in with J-nuts. The rear of the tank frame also has J-nuts and it bolts directly to the frame from the bottom. I also had to modify the rear crossmember and weld nuts inside it. There isn't a good way to get a wrench back there, so now I don't need to. I will have to also weld nuts in the frame for the bumper brackets.
Hopefully this week I can get the rack mounted and start working on the steering shaft and u-joints.
Last edited by rms on Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
-Ryan
1969 F100
1969 F100
- popeyes71
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
to the site! Nice solid truck that you started with and great thread that you started! I'm looking forward to watching the progress on your build.
-Popeye-
1971 F-250 4x4 Highboy
1966 Chevy Nova, 8 second 10.5 car
1971 F-250 4x4 Highboy
1966 Chevy Nova, 8 second 10.5 car
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
This is going to be a nice ride!! Similar build to mine. I need to read up on the front brake upgrade!
Barry
Barry
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Thanks guys for the kind words.
Today I bolted in the sway bar and the steering rack. I ran into a problem. The outer tie rods hit the sway bar big time. I’m pretty sure the sway bar is upside down, whoops!
Here’s the steering linkage I bought. I went with the Borgeson parts as they are the only ones I could find made in USA. Unfortunately, they are twice the cost and raw steel. I may just clear them to keep the rust off.
Today I bolted in the sway bar and the steering rack. I ran into a problem. The outer tie rods hit the sway bar big time. I’m pretty sure the sway bar is upside down, whoops!
Here’s the steering linkage I bought. I went with the Borgeson parts as they are the only ones I could find made in USA. Unfortunately, they are twice the cost and raw steel. I may just clear them to keep the rust off.
Last edited by rms on Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Ryan
1969 F100
1969 F100
- mouse
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
nice build you got. what do you plan on for the filler neck?
1971 F100 sport special 390 fe
1993 F250 4X4 ext-cab 6.9 idi
1993 F250 4X4 ext-cab 6.9 idi
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Thank you. I’m going to have to cut a hole in the bed, as I see no other choice. I’ll probably use a spring loaded fuel door off a late model something.mouse wrote:nice build you got. what do you plan on for the filler neck?
-Ryan
1969 F100
1969 F100
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Another awesome build to follow and motivate me!! Keep up the great work
- mouse
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
yes cutting the bed is inevitable but past that you have many options. you could put in the way in the middle of the bed, could also do a newer side fill or oem aux tank fill. getting creative could involve mounting behind a flip open tail light, putting a flush mount fill cap on the bed rail or could box the inside bed shelf/edge for it.rms wrote:Thank you. I’m going to have to cut a hole in the bed, as I see no other choice. I’ll probably use a spring loaded fuel door off a late model something.mouse wrote:nice build you got. what do you plan on for the filler neck?
1971 F100 sport special 390 fe
1993 F250 4X4 ext-cab 6.9 idi
1993 F250 4X4 ext-cab 6.9 idi
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Looking back through your pics again and stopped on the pic with the angle finder on the rearend. I would not sweat it just yet. Wait for all of the weight to be on it and recheck. I did not have to do a thing to mine. Angle was perfect after things were assembled. No vibration at all.
As far as the gas door, I used a 6" hole saw and cut a hole in the bed then used a Taurus gas hing and welded in. I also welded in a support for the door on the opposite side of the hing. It needs it incase you load something in the truck and weight is on the door. I found a window support out of a foxbody mustang in my garage and used it. It is basically an L bracket with felt on it. Keeps the fuel door from rubbing and squeaking. Look in my thread called Krusty Kab and you will find pics.
Barry
As far as the gas door, I used a 6" hole saw and cut a hole in the bed then used a Taurus gas hing and welded in. I also welded in a support for the door on the opposite side of the hing. It needs it incase you load something in the truck and weight is on the door. I found a window support out of a foxbody mustang in my garage and used it. It is basically an L bracket with felt on it. Keeps the fuel door from rubbing and squeaking. Look in my thread called Krusty Kab and you will find pics.
Barry
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Mouse,
All good options, however I like what Barry did on the Krusty Kab. I’ll probably follow his lead there.
Barry,
Awesome build Sir! I’m going to copy your fuel door, thx! I’ll wait on the axle shims too until it’s complete. Couple questions for you.
With the fuel tank located how we have it, can you get to the set of bed bolts located 2nd from the rear? I don’t imagine much access available with the bed on and tank in place.
Did you need to trim your inner fenders much to clear the CV? I was going to buy new Dennis Carpenter ones.
All good options, however I like what Barry did on the Krusty Kab. I’ll probably follow his lead there.
Barry,
Awesome build Sir! I’m going to copy your fuel door, thx! I’ll wait on the axle shims too until it’s complete. Couple questions for you.
With the fuel tank located how we have it, can you get to the set of bed bolts located 2nd from the rear? I don’t imagine much access available with the bed on and tank in place.
Did you need to trim your inner fenders much to clear the CV? I was going to buy new Dennis Carpenter ones.
-Ryan
1969 F100
1969 F100
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- New Member
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
-Ryan
1969 F100
1969 F100
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Wow great job. I thought it was sweet before you started but once it's done it's gonna be awesome!
1972 f100 4x4 4 inch lift with dump box kit-sold
1969 f250 4x4 highboy in progress.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=85251
Kyle
1969 f250 4x4 highboy in progress.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=85251
Kyle
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Thank you! I would absolutely love to have a highboy like yours one day, it is so cool!Lone Ranger wrote:Wow great job. I thought it was sweet before you started but once it's done it's gonna be awesome!
-Ryan
1969 F100
1969 F100
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Mr RMS, to the best site period.
Hope you like it here.
Pull up a chair and stay awhile.
Congratulations on the nice rebuild.
Thanks for all the good information & pictures.
Please keep us up dated.
I enjoyed it.
Hope you like it here.
Pull up a chair and stay awhile.
Congratulations on the nice rebuild.
Thanks for all the good information & pictures.
Please keep us up dated.
I enjoyed it.
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Re: '69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.
Hey Ryan, you are thinking correct on the bed bolts. You cannot access them. I did not realize this till after the fact so I do not have bed bolts there. If you can weld in nuts for those you will be good to go. As far as inner fenders, I had to trim very little around the CV frontend. Probably no more than 1/2" or so. I bought one new one from DC and wish I had bought both. Had to do alot of work to get the other to look as good as the new one.rms wrote:Mouse,
Barry,
Awesome build Sir! I’m going to copy your fuel door, thx! I’ll wait on the axle shims too until it’s complete. Couple questions for you.
With the fuel tank located how we have it, can you get to the set of bed bolts located 2nd from the rear? I don’t imagine much access available with the bed on and tank in place.
Did you need to trim your inner fenders much to clear the CV? I was going to buy new Dennis Carpenter ones.
Barry